1 Chapter 22 Hair Removal 1

2 Learning Objectives Explain the significance of a client intake form used in hair removal services. Name the conditions that contraindicate hair removal in the salon. Identify and describe three methods of permanent hair removal. List the eight methods used for temporary hair removal. WHY STUDY HAIR REMOVAL? Removing unwanted hair is a primary concern for many clients, and being able to advise them on various types of hair removal will enhance your ability to satisfy your clients. Offering clients hair removal services that meet their needs and can be scheduled while they are already in the salon can be a valuable extra service you can offer. Learning the proper hair removal techniques and performing them safely makes you an even more important part of a client’s beauty regimen. 2

3 LESSON ACTIVITY 1 Have students research the various facial hair lighteners that are on the market. Have them write down the directions for each product and explain how they differ from lighteners used on scalp hair. 3

4 Introduction Body waxing has gained a tremendous amount of popularity in the last few years. Hirsuties – the growth of an unusual amount of hair on parts of the body normally bearing only downy hair, such as the faces of women and the backs of men. Hirsutism – an excessive growth or cover of hair, especially in women. INTRODUCTION One of the fastest growing services in the salon and spa businesses is hair removal. Once restricted to an occasional lip or brow service, a growing number of clients now want to have their entire face, arms, and legs bare of hair. Body waxing has gained a tremendous amount of popularity in the last few years. Many clients now have body waxing performed as regularly as getting their hair cut or colored. Hirsuties, also known as hypertrichosis, is the growth of an unusual amount of hair on parts of the body normally bearing only downy hair, such as the faces of women and the backs of men. Hirsutism is an excessive growth or cover of hair, especially in women. (continues) 4

5 Introduction (continued)The most common form of hair removal in salons and spas is waxing, but with the popularity of these services on the rise, many different methods are now coming into play. Many men are now frequently requesting hair removal services. The nape of the neck, chest, and back are the most frequent removal requests for men. INTRODUCTION (continued) The most common form of hair removal in salons and spas is waxing, but with the popularity of these services on the rise, many different methods are now coming into play. Many men are now frequently requesting hair removal services. The nape of the neck, chest, and back are the most frequent removal requests for men. 5

6 Consult the Client Disclosure of topical and oral medicationsDisclosure of medical issues Disclosure of skin disorders or allergies CONSULT THE CLIENT Be sure to perform a consultation with the client prior to the hair removal procedure. Have client complete the client intake form which is used in skin care services and is a questionnaire that discloses all medications, both topical and oral along with medical issues, skin disorders, or allergies that might affect treatment. 6

7 Contraindications for Hair RemovalAccutane Blood thinners Chemotherapy Autoimmune diseases Prednisone or steroids Skin diseases NAME THE CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR HAIR REMOVAL Accutane: A contraindication would be present if a client has been using isotretinoin (Accutane) within the last six months. Blood thinners: A contraindication would be present if the client is taking blood-thinning medications. Chemotherapy: A contraindication would be present if a client was undergoing chemotherapy or radiation. Autoimmune diseases: A contraindication would be present if a client was taking drugs for an autoimmune disease including lupus. Prednisone or steroids: A contraindication would be present if a client was taking prednisone or steroids. Skin diseases: A contraindication would be present if a client was suffering from psoriasis, eczema, or other chronic skin diseases. (continues) 7

8 Contraindications for Hair Removal (continued)Skin lesions Sunburn Cosmetic surgery Laser skin treatment Varicose veins Bleeding disorders Other questionable conditions NAME THE CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR HAIR REMOVAL (continued) Skin lesions: A contraindication would be present if a client had pustules, papules, or other skin lesions in the area to be waxed. Sunburn: A contraindication would be present if a client had a sunburn. Cosmetic surgery: A contraindication would be present if a client recently had cosmetic or reconstructive surgery. Laser skin treatment: A contraindication would be present if a client recently had a laser skin treatment. Varicose veins: A contraindication would be present if a client had varicose veins. Bleeding disorders: A contraindication would be present if a client had hemophilia, bleeding disorders, or circulatory conditions. Medical condition: A contraindication would be present if a client had a questionable medical condition. Conditions that prevent waxing services: Clients should not receive a waxing services if they have rosacea, very sensitive skin, cold sores, recent chemical peel such as a glycolic or salicylic, or recent microdermabrasion. Use of topical exfoliation medications such as Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, Differin, Azelex, or other medical peeling agent. Recent laser skin treatment, surgical peel, or use of hydroquinone. 8

9 Client Intake Form

10 Release Form for Waxing

11 Describe Permanent Hair RemovalElectrolysis – electric current destroys the growth cells of the hair Photoepilation – uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicles Laser hair removal – another method for the rapid removal of unwanted hair DESCRIBE PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL Permanent hair removal methods include electrolysis, photoepilation (light-based hair removal), and hair removal. Electrolysis: The removal of hair by means of electric current that destroys the growth cells of the hair. Photoepilation: Also known as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL); uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicles. Laser hair removal: Lasers are another method for the rapid removal of unwanted hair. A laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing hair growth. 11

12 Electrolysis Current applied with fine electrodeCan be painful, time-consuming, expensive Requires special license ELECTROLYSIS The removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the root of the hair. Current applied with fine, needle-shaped electrode. The electrode is inserted into the hair follicle. Can be painful, time-consuming, and expensive. Performed only by a licensed electrologist. 12

13 Photoepilation Also known as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)Minimal side effects Requires no needles (reduced risk) Clears 50 to 60 percent of hair in 12 weeks Requires license PHOTOEPILATION Uses intense light to destroy hair follicles. Administered by cosmetologists and estheticians. The state law determines who can perform. Training is generally provided by the manufacturer of the photoepilation equipment. 13

14 Laser Hair Removal Rapid removal Best in anagen phaseBest response from coarse, dark hair Requires specialized training LASER HAIR REMOVAL A laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing the hair follicle. Rapid removal of unwanted hair. Best if hair is in the anagen phase. Coarse, dark hair responds best. For some, the laser method brings permanent results; for others, regrowth is slowed down. Requires specialized training. State law determines who is allowed to perform the service. 14

15 Discuss Temporary Hair RemovalShaving Tweezing Depilatories Epilators Threading Sugaring DISCUSS TEMPORARY HAIR REMOVAL Temporary methods of hair removal, some of which may be offered in the salon or spa, are discussed below. Shaving Tweezing Depilatories Epilators Threading Sugaring 15

16 Shaving Men’s facial hair Women’s legs and underarmsQuick and convenient Can result in irritation, ingrown hairs, and nicks from the blade SHAVING Men’s facial hair Women’s legs and underarms Quick and convenient Can result in irritation, ingrown hairs, and nicks from the blade. Electric clipper can be used to remove unwanted hair at the nape of the neck. NOTE: Please refer your students to Milady’s barbering textbook for more detailed procedures and information regarding men’s shaving. 16

17 Tweezing Tweezing – used to shape eyebrows and remove undesirable hairs around mouth and chin. The natural arch of the brow follows the orbital bone or the curved line of the eye socket. Consultation is used to avoid mistakes and ensure client satisfaction. TWEEZING Tweezing is using tweezers to remove hairs. Commonly used to shape the eyebrows. Can also be used to remove undesirable hairs from around the mouth and chin. 17

18 Determining the Best Shape for EyebrowsDetermine the client's wishes for final eyebrow shape. Where the brow should begin Hold the base of a comb or spatula against the corner of the nose with the other end of the comb or spatula extending straight upward toward the eyebrow. This is where the brow should begin. Where the brow should end Hold the comb or spatula so it extends from the corner of the nose to the outside corner of the eye and then across the eyebrow. The high point of the arch of the brow should be near the outside corner of the iris if the client is looking straight ahead. See Procedure 22-1, Pre-Service Procedure, found on page 748 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 22-2, Post-Service Procedure, found on page 751 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 22-3, Eyebrow Tweezing, found on page 753 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 18

19 Depilatories Substances used for temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving at skin level Contain detergents Contain adhesives Expand hair, break disulfide bonds Require patch test DEPILATORIES Substances, usually caustic alkali preparations, used for the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving it at skin level. Contain detergents to strip sebum from hair. Contain adhesives to hold chemicals to hair shaft for 5 to 10 minutes. Expand hair and break disulfide bonds, which are then destroyed. Chemicals like sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, thioglycolate acid, or calcium thioglycolate used to destroy bonds. Require patch test if performed in salon. 19

20 Epilators Wax (hot or cold)Applied to brows, cheeks, chin, upper lip, arms, and legs EPILATORS An epilator removes the hair from the bottom of the follicle, i.e., wax. Wax is available in two main forms: hard and soft wax. Soft wax is applied to the skin and then removed using fabric strips. Hard wax is somewhat thicker and does not require fabric strips for removal. An example of a waxing service that uses an epilator is an Brazilian bikini waxing which is a technique that requires the removal of all the hair from the front and back of the bikini area. 20

21 Safety Precautions for WaxingTest wax temperature. Avoid wax contact with eyes. Never double-dip wax. Do not apply over warts, moles, abrasions, or irritated or inflamed skin. Use hard wax on sensitive skin. Apply aloe gel to calm and soothe. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR WAXING To prevent burns, always test the temperature of the heated wax before applying to the client’s skin. Use a professional wax heater for warming wax. Never heat wax in a microwave or on a stove top. Wax can become overheated and burn the client’s skin. Use caution so that the wax does not come In contact with the eyes. Never double-dip wax. When removing wax from the wax pot, always use a new spatula. Do not apply wax over warts, moles, abrasions, or irritated or inflamed skin. Do not remove hair protruding from a mole because the wax could cause trauma to the mole. The skin under the arms is sometimes very sensitive. If so, use hard wax. Redness and swelling sometimes occur after waxing-sensitive skin. Apply an aloe gel and cool compresses to calm and soothe the skin. 21

22 Hair Removal ProceduresSee Procedure 22-4, Eyebrow Waxing Using Soft Wax, found on page 755 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 22-5, Eyebrow Waxing Using Hard Wax, found on page 757 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 22-6, Body Waxing Using Soft Wax, found on page 759 of Milady Standard Cosmetology.

23 Threading Practiced in Eastern cultures.Involves manipulation of thread. Thread is twisted and rolled on skin surface. Hair is entwined and lifted from follicle. Specialized training is required. THREADING A temporary method of hair removal practiced in many Eastern cultures. Involves manipulation of cotton thread, which is twisted and rolled along the skin surface, entwining the hair in the thread and lifting it from the follicle. Method requires specialized training. 23

24 Sugaring An epilatory treatment that produces the same results as hot or cold wax Uses thick, sugar-based paste Appropriate for sensitive skin Residue removed by dissolving with warm water SUGARING Sugaring is another temporary hair removal that involves the use of a thick, sugar-based paste and is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types.

25 Summary and Review Depilation is removing hair at the skin line such as shaving and using chemical depilatories. Epilation is removing hair below the skin line such as tweezing, waxing, and electrolysis. As a licensed practitioner, you will be asked to remove unwanted hair, especially the eyebrows and facial hair. SUMMARY AND REVIEW Depilation is removing hair at the skin line such as shaving and using chemical depilatories. Epilation is removing hair below the skin line such as tweezing, waxing, and electrolysis. As a licensed practitioner, you will be asked to remove unwanted hair, especially the eyebrows and facial hair. (continues) 25

26 Summary and Review (continued)If you should choose to specialize in esthetics, you will want to become proficient in other hair removal services as allowed by the regulatory agency in the state or province where you practice. It is extremely important to follow cleaning and disinfection guidelines when removing unwanted hair. Cleanse and dry the treatment area prior to treatment and apply a cooling antiseptic afterward. Follow all safety precautions to protect the client from skin irritation or inflammation. SUMMARY AND REVIEW (continued) If you should choose to specialize in esthetics, you will want to become proficient in other hair removal services as allowed by the regulatory agency in the state or province where you practice. It is extremely important to follow cleaning and disinfection guidelines when removing unwanted hair. Cleanse and dry the treatment area prior to treatment and apply a cooling antiseptic afterward. Follow all safety precautions to protect the client from skin irritation or inflammation. 26

27 Chapter Review QuestionsWhat information should be entered on the intake form during the consultation? What conditions, treatments, and medications contraindicate hair removal in the salon? What are the two major types of hair removal? Give examples of each. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS 1. What information should be entered on the intake form during the consultation? Answer: Clients should disclose all medications (topical and oral) along with medical conditions, skin disorders, or allergies.  2. What conditions, treatments, and medications contraindicate hair removal in the salon? Answer: Clients should not have waxing performed if they have been taking Accutane within the last six months, blood-thinning medications, undergone chemotherapy or radiation, and taking any medication for autoimmune disease, predisone. They should also not receive waxing services if they have psoriasis, eczema, chronic skin disorders, sunburn, pustules, papules, or other lesions. They should also not receive waxing services if they have recently had surgery, laser skin treatments, varicose veins, bleeding disorders, or any other serious medical issues.  3. What are the two major types of hair removal? Give examples of each. Answer: The hair removal categories are permanent hair removal which includes electrolysis, photoepilation and laser hair removal, and temporary hair removal which includes shaving, tweezing, depilatory creams, hard wax, and soft wax. (continues) 27

28 Chapter Review Questions (continued)Define electrolysis, photoepilation, and laser removal. Which hair removal techniques should not be performed in the salon without special training? What is the difference between a depilatory and an epilator? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 4. Define electrolysis, photoepilation, and laser removal. Answer: Electrolysis is the removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the growth cells of the hair. Photoepilation uses an intense pulsed light to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicles. Laser hair removal is a rapid removal of unwanted hair utilizing a laser beam. 5. Which hair removal techniques should not be performed in the salon without special training? Answer: Special training is needed electrolysis, photoepilation, laser hair removal, threading, and, sugaring.  6. What is the difference between a depilatory and an epilator? Answer: A depilatory is a caustic alkali preparation that dissolves the hair on the skin’s surface. An epilator removes the hair from the bottom of the follicle. (continues) 28

29 Chapter Review Questions (continued)Why must a test patch be given before waxing? List safety precautions that must be followed for soft and hard waxing. Define threading and sugaring. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 7. Why must a test patch be given before waxing? Answer: Always perform a test patch because wax can become overheated and burn the client’s skin. 8. List safety precautions that must be followed for soft and hard waxing. Answer: Safety precautions include – testing the temperature of the wax, use caution so the wax does not come in contact with the eyes, never double-dip, do not apply wax over warts, moles, abrasions, irritated or inflamed skin, and do not remove hair from a mole.  9. Define threading and sugaring. Answer: Threading is using cotton thread that is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin, entwining the hair in the thread to lift it from the follicle. Sugaring involves the use of a thick, sugar-based paste and is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin. 29